Abstract
This contribution details analysis of field data collected using an array of 6 pressure transducers in reflective wave fields seawards of both rock island (Elmer, West Sussex) and berm (Plymouth, Devon) breakwaters. Field measurements show that in strongly reflective wave fields the cross-shore distribution of sea-surface elevation variance can be accurately modelled using the shallow water linear wave equations even where the bathymetry is complex. When waves break on or close to the structure the gravity band reflection is inversely related to incident wave steepness. However, when the surfzone is fully developed reflected wave energy is low (<4% of the incident wave energy) and uncorrelated with wave steepness. Due to the influence of the shallow sloping beach and berm seawards of these structures their reflection performance is strongly affected by the local water depth (tidal state), wave reflection increasing towards high water.
Original language | English |
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Pages (from-to) | 642-655 |
Number of pages | 0 |
Journal | Coastal Dynamics - Proceedings of the International Conference |
Volume | 0 |
Issue number | 0 |
Publication status | Published - 1 Dec 1994 |