Wave-by-wave forecasts in directional seas using nonlinear dispersion corrections

Eytan Meisner; Mariano Galvagno; David Andrade; Dan Liberzon; Raphael Stuhlmeier

doi:10.1063/5.0149980

Wave-by-wave forecasts in directional seas using nonlinear dispersion corrections

Eytan Meisner
, Mariano Galvagno
, David Andrade
, Dan Liberzon
, Raphael Stuhlmeier^*

^*Corresponding author for this work

School of Engineering, Computing and Mathematics

Technion-Israel Institute of Technology
Universidad del Rosario

Research output: Contribution to journal › Article › peer-review

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Abstract

We develop a new methodology for the deterministic forecasting of directional ocean surface waves based on nonlinear frequency corrections. These frequency corrections can be pre-computed based on measured energy density spectra and, therefore, come at no additional computational cost compared to linear theory. The nonlinear forecasting methodology is tested on highly nonlinear synthetically generated seas with a variety of values of average steepness and directional spreading and is shown to consistently outperform a linear forecast.

Original language	English
Number of pages	0
Journal	Physics of Fluids
Volume	35
Issue number	6
Early online date	2 Jun 2023
DOIs	https://doi.org/10.1063/5.0149980
Publication status	Published - 2 Jun 2023

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10.1063/5.0149980

POF23-AR-MRNE2023-01714

Cite this

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title = "Wave-by-wave forecasts in directional seas using nonlinear dispersion corrections",

abstract = "We develop a new methodology for the deterministic forecasting of directional ocean surface waves based on nonlinear frequency corrections. These frequency corrections can be pre-computed based on measured energy density spectra and, therefore, come at no additional computational cost compared to linear theory. The nonlinear forecasting methodology is tested on highly nonlinear synthetically generated seas with a variety of values of average steepness and directional spreading and is shown to consistently outperform a linear forecast.",

author = "Eytan Meisner and Mariano Galvagno and David Andrade and Dan Liberzon and Raphael Stuhlmeier",

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T1 - Wave-by-wave forecasts in directional seas using nonlinear dispersion corrections

AU - Meisner, Eytan

AU - Galvagno, Mariano

AU - Andrade, David

AU - Liberzon, Dan

AU - Stuhlmeier, Raphael

PY - 2023/6/2

Y1 - 2023/6/2

N2 - We develop a new methodology for the deterministic forecasting of directional ocean surface waves based on nonlinear frequency corrections. These frequency corrections can be pre-computed based on measured energy density spectra and, therefore, come at no additional computational cost compared to linear theory. The nonlinear forecasting methodology is tested on highly nonlinear synthetically generated seas with a variety of values of average steepness and directional spreading and is shown to consistently outperform a linear forecast.

AB - We develop a new methodology for the deterministic forecasting of directional ocean surface waves based on nonlinear frequency corrections. These frequency corrections can be pre-computed based on measured energy density spectra and, therefore, come at no additional computational cost compared to linear theory. The nonlinear forecasting methodology is tested on highly nonlinear synthetically generated seas with a variety of values of average steepness and directional spreading and is shown to consistently outperform a linear forecast.

UR - https://pearl.plymouth.ac.uk/secam-research/1134/

U2 - 10.1063/5.0149980

DO - 10.1063/5.0149980

M3 - Article

SN - 1070-6631

VL - 35

JO - Physics of Fluids

JF - Physics of Fluids

IS - 6

ER -

Wave-by-wave forecasts in directional seas using nonlinear dispersion corrections

Abstract

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Israel innovation researcher mobility scheme: Ocean surface waves & maritime infrastructure

SWIM: Stochastic wave modelling for inhomogeneous sea-states