Wave-by-wave forecasts in directional seas using nonlinear dispersion corrections

Eytan Meisner, Mariano Galvagno, David Andrade, Dan Liberzon, Raphael Stuhlmeier*

*Corresponding author for this work

Research output: Contribution to journalArticlepeer-review

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Abstract

<jats:p>We develop a new methodology for the deterministic forecasting of directional ocean surface waves based on nonlinear frequency corrections. These frequency corrections can be pre-computed based on measured energy density spectra and, therefore, come at no additional computational cost compared to linear theory. The nonlinear forecasting methodology is tested on highly nonlinear synthetically generated seas with a variety of values of average steepness and directional spreading and is shown to consistently outperform a linear forecast.</jats:p>
Original languageEnglish
Number of pages0
JournalPhysics of Fluids
Volume35
Issue number6
Early online date2 Jun 2023
DOIs
Publication statusPublished - 2 Jun 2023

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