Abstract
Wave-induced currents at cusped beaches are important for large-scale horizontal mixing processes. In this paper, data are presented on the nearshore currents due to a sinusoidal multi-cusped beach installed at the U.K. Coastal Research Facility (UKCRF). Horizontal spatial patterns of the currents have been determined by digital image analysis of the motions of neutrally-buoyant markers. For normally incident regular waves, combinations of rip and longshore currents gave rise to a steady system of multiple circulation cells. Oblique incident waves generated a stable meandering longshore current. Detailed information on the depth profiles of rip and meandering nearshore currents was obtained using Sontek acoustic Doppler velocimeters (ADVs). The profiles indicate that the outflowing rip current is nearly-horizontal with low frequency oscillations evident. The meandering current is steady and has a logarithmic profile near the bed.
| Original language | English |
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| Pages (from-to) | 953-962 |
| Number of pages | 0 |
| Journal | Coastal Dynamics - Proceedings of the International Conference |
| Volume | 0 |
| Issue number | 0 |
| Publication status | Published - 1 Dec 1997 |