Skip to main navigation Skip to search Skip to main content

Importance of second-order wave generation for focused wave group run-up and overtopping

  • HR Wallingford Ltd
  • University of Oxford
  • University of Edinburgh

Research output: Contribution to journalArticlepeer-review

Abstract

Background: Focused wave groups offer a means for coastal engineers to determine extreme run-up and overtopping events. Research purpose: This work examines numerically the importance of second-order accurate laboratory wave generation for NewWave-type focused wave groups generated by a piston-type paddle generator, and interacting with a plane beach and a seawall in a wave basin. Methods: The numerical wave tank is based on the Boussinesq equations for non-breaking waves, and the nonlinear shallow water equations for broken waves. During the model validation, good agreement is achieved between the numerical predictions and laboratory measurements of free surface elevation, run-up distances and overtopping volumes for the test cases driven by linear paddle signals. Errors in run-up distance and overtopping volume, arising from linear wave generation, are then assessed numerically by repeating the test cases using second-order accurate paddle signals. Results: Focused wave groups generated using first-order wave-maker theory are found to be substantially contaminated by a preceding long error wave, resulting in erroneously enhanced run-up distances and overtopping volumes. Conclusions: Thus, the use of second-order wave-maker theory for wave group run-up and overtopping experiments is instead recommended.
Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)63-79
Number of pages0
JournalCoastal Engineering
Volume94
Issue number0
DOIs
Publication statusPublished - 11 Aug 2014

UN SDGs

This output contributes to the following UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs)

  1. SDG 14 - Life Below Water
    SDG 14 Life Below Water

Fingerprint

Dive into the research topics of 'Importance of second-order wave generation for focused wave group run-up and overtopping'. Together they form a unique fingerprint.

Cite this