Free longwave shortwave interaction in a surf zone

TJ O'Hare; TE Baldock; DA Huntley; PD Bird; GN Bullock

doi:10.1061/40549(276)112

Free longwave shortwave interaction in a surf zone

TJ O'Hare, TE Baldock, DA Huntley, PD Bird, GN Bullock

School of Biological and Marine Sciences

Research output: Chapter in Book/Report/Conference proceeding › Conference proceedings published in a book › peer-review

Abstract

The interaction of free long waves and free short waves inside and outside the surf zone is investigated and new experimental data are presented. A simple conceptual model of the interaction process suggests that the modulation of the short wave breakpoint by the long wave motion will lead to additional long wave generation, thereby modifying the apparent long wave reflection coefficient. This change in reflectivity appears dependent on the relative position of the short wave breakpoint and the long wave nodal/antinodal points, and hence the short wave amplitude. The experimental data largely confirms this hypothesis, and also suggests that non-linear interactions may become significant offshore of the breakpoint.

Original language	English
Title of host publication	Coastal Engineering 2000 - Proceedings of the 27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ICCE 2000
Editors	BL Edge
Publisher	American Society of Civil Engineers (ASCE)
Pages	1448-1461
Number of pages	13
DOIs	https://doi.org/10.1061/40549(276)112
Publication status	Published - 1 Jan 2001
Event	Proceedings 27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering - Sydney Duration: 1 Jan 2001 → …

Conference

Conference	Proceedings 27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering
Period	1/01/01 → …

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10.1061/40549(276)112

Cite this

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title = "Free longwave shortwave interaction in a surf zone",

abstract = "The interaction of free long waves and free short waves inside and outside the surf zone is investigated and new experimental data are presented. A simple conceptual model of the interaction process suggests that the modulation of the short wave breakpoint by the long wave motion will lead to additional long wave generation, thereby modifying the apparent long wave reflection coefficient. This change in reflectivity appears dependent on the relative position of the short wave breakpoint and the long wave nodal/antinodal points, and hence the short wave amplitude. The experimental data largely confirms this hypothesis, and also suggests that non-linear interactions may become significant offshore of the breakpoint.",

author = "TJ O'Hare and TE Baldock and DA Huntley and PD Bird and GN Bullock",

year = "2001",

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doi = "10.1061/40549(276)112",

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pages = "1448--1461",

editor = "BL Edge",

booktitle = "Coastal Engineering 2000 - Proceedings of the 27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ICCE 2000",

publisher = "American Society of Civil Engineers (ASCE)",

address = "United States",

note = "Proceedings 27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering ; Conference date: 01-01-2001",

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O'Hare, TJ, Baldock, TE, Huntley, DA, Bird, PD & Bullock, GN 2001, Free longwave shortwave interaction in a surf zone. in BL Edge (ed.), Coastal Engineering 2000 - Proceedings of the 27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ICCE 2000. American Society of Civil Engineers (ASCE), pp. 1448-1461, Proceedings 27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, 1/01/01. https://doi.org/10.1061/40549(276)112

Free longwave shortwave interaction in a surf zone. / O'Hare, TJ; Baldock, TE; Huntley, DA et al.
Coastal Engineering 2000 - Proceedings of the 27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ICCE 2000. ed. / BL Edge. American Society of Civil Engineers (ASCE), 2001. p. 1448-1461.

Research output: Chapter in Book/Report/Conference proceeding › Conference proceedings published in a book › peer-review

TY - GEN

T1 - Free longwave shortwave interaction in a surf zone

AU - O'Hare, TJ

AU - Baldock, TE

AU - Huntley, DA

AU - Bird, PD

AU - Bullock, GN

PY - 2001/1/1

Y1 - 2001/1/1

N2 - The interaction of free long waves and free short waves inside and outside the surf zone is investigated and new experimental data are presented. A simple conceptual model of the interaction process suggests that the modulation of the short wave breakpoint by the long wave motion will lead to additional long wave generation, thereby modifying the apparent long wave reflection coefficient. This change in reflectivity appears dependent on the relative position of the short wave breakpoint and the long wave nodal/antinodal points, and hence the short wave amplitude. The experimental data largely confirms this hypothesis, and also suggests that non-linear interactions may become significant offshore of the breakpoint.

AB - The interaction of free long waves and free short waves inside and outside the surf zone is investigated and new experimental data are presented. A simple conceptual model of the interaction process suggests that the modulation of the short wave breakpoint by the long wave motion will lead to additional long wave generation, thereby modifying the apparent long wave reflection coefficient. This change in reflectivity appears dependent on the relative position of the short wave breakpoint and the long wave nodal/antinodal points, and hence the short wave amplitude. The experimental data largely confirms this hypothesis, and also suggests that non-linear interactions may become significant offshore of the breakpoint.

U2 - 10.1061/40549(276)112

DO - 10.1061/40549(276)112

M3 - Conference proceedings published in a book

SP - 1448

EP - 1461

BT - Coastal Engineering 2000 - Proceedings of the 27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ICCE 2000

A2 - Edge, BL

PB - American Society of Civil Engineers (ASCE)

T2 - Proceedings 27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering

Y2 - 1 January 2001

ER -

Free longwave shortwave interaction in a surf zone

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